The road between Nairobi and Mombasa is long and scary! Only 500km away, we expected a good steady drive, nothing like what we encountered.
The number and the condition of the trucks on this road make any travel for cars extremely long and frustrating. Add that to Kenyan driver mentality and you have quite a dangerous drive ahead of you. As we discovered on a number of occasions, just because the road law says you should drive on the left hand side of the road, it doesn’t mean that’s what people are going to do! We lost track of the number of times a driver coming in the opposite direction on OUR side of the road would flash their lights at us telling us to move out of the way. And it’s actually dangerous not to, or least slow down allowing them time to merge back in to the right hand side of the road. CRAZY!!
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Beautiful cloud covered mountains on the way to Mombasa
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We arrived in Mombasa in the late afternoon and headed to the Nyali Beach area to a backpackers called “Backpacker’s Nirvana”; we’d been tossing up between that one and Mombasa Backpackers. In hindsight I’d have gone to the other one as “Backpacker’s Nirvana” felt a little weird and facilities a bit run down, although the staff were all quite friendly.
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What we were drinking in Kenya :-)
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We only had a few
days in Mombasa but still managed to squeeze a bit in. We started with the
usual touristy stuff like a visit to Fort Jesus and the “Old Town”, both a tad
disappointing although I suspect that’s more a result of having been to places
like Stone Town in Zanzibar. The fort was ok and we wondered around the grounds
and museum for about an hour. The Old Town in the neighbouring area was
probably not worth the effort; in fact I’d say give it the miss if you’ve been
to Stone Town or places like Ilha de Mocambique. It has the same sort of
architecture and narrow laneways, but completely unpreserved and quite (very)
filthy in many parts. It really isn’t nice.
Cutting our time
short in the Old Town meant we had time to head to Mombasa Beach where we spent
a lovely afternoon having lunch at Yuls Restaurant (including the biggest pizza
ever), a walk along the beach and afternoon cocktails. Very enjoyable.
On another day we
headed a little bit up the coast to check out the beaches there. We made a big
mistake of saving Jumba Ruins Monsoons for dinner instead of lunch. We were
lucky as it was to get a dinner as they are normally only open for lunch,
however we didn’t see the ruins in the dark, which you walk through to get to
the restaurant. Nonetheless the food in this place was great and I’d highly
recommend this one for a seaside lunch.
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Nyali Beach, Mombasa |
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Cargo ship @Nyali Beach, Mombasa |
More great
coffee (try Cafesserie Mombasa) and relaxed days near the beach and we were
ready for a quieter beach destination.
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The streets of Northern Mombasa...not as I had pictured them AT ALL!
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Enjoying a cold pineapple and mango juice at a nearby hotel |
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Our next
stop was a tough choice; Lamu Island or head south? Let me back up a minute……
Our original
plans as described on this blog had been to head north to Ethiopia from Kenya,
but due to the following factors we had made a decision to return to Zambia and
fly back to Australia from our starting point:
- The requirement to sell Ruth before we went home…easier in
Zambia (as she is Zambian registered)
- The wear and tear on Ruth from driving the northern road to
the Moyale border which we decided to avoid
- The visa requirements and logistics for Ethiopia; definitely
doable but still difficult
And so, knowing that we had to return south
pretty soon, we made the decision to head to one of Kenya’s Southern beaches, Diani
Beach, not that far from Mombasa.
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The Likoni Ferry, taking us South of Mombasa |
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On the ferry
As disappointed as I felt originally about
missing out on Lamu, this disappeared pretty quickly when we arrived in Diani.
What a lovely beach! A little piece of paradise.
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Diani Beach: A little piece of paradise
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Mike and I decided to stay in the Simba-OryxBeach Cottages given this was the last real part of our holiday. These cottages
were a great deal, paying $55pn for a fully self-contained cottage, fully
equipped kitchen, hot shower, ceiling fans and a beautiful porch to enjoy
breakfast and sunset drinks. Our three night stay doubled to six in the end as
we just never wanted to leave!
Our days consisted of breakfast on the porch, a
morning swim, lunch, reading and relaxing, afternoon run on the beach, shower,
sundowner drinks and dinner. And I loved every second of it!
The beach was beautiful; the seaweed in parts
was a bit annoying, as were the beach boys, but we found ways around both and
were able to enjoy the white sand and warm water. Some days we had guys bring
fresh fish to our door (yay!!) which we brought and cooked up, the fresh prawns
being an absolute winner.
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Prawns delivered to our door |
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Mike cooking up a storm |
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And the finished product! Boy, were they good too!! |
Unfortunately all good things come to
an end and after nearly a week in paradise the time had come to leave Diani
Beach and Kenya, at least for a while L
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